Shahi Tukray with Pistachio and Coconut Cream in 8 Steps

This blogpost is a fourth installment of the Chef Table's series.

To read about Chef Massimo Bottura's episode click on Butter Chicken's recipe.

To read about Chef Barber's episode click on Som Tum's recipe.

To read about Chef Francis Mallmann's episode click on T-Bone Steaks' recipe.

Episode 4: Niki Nakayama - n/naka in Los Angeles

Chef Niki Nakayama explains that when she is cooking, her mind is completely shut off, and she finds herself in a meditative state. Cooking gives her the freedom to be bold and expressive. Niki’s episode is the most unique in this series. Being the only woman featured in Chef's Table she discusses sexism. She had to overcome sexism not only in her Asian culture, but also in the male dominated restaurant business. She discusses being a woman she knew, in order to succeed in the culinary field, she had to work harder than everyone else.

Her story is also important because she is a Los Angeles chef. LA unlike any other North American city does not have a European core. LA neighborhoods are divided into Latin and Asian culinary regions. So having an Asian Chef succeed in LA, while staying true to the Asian tradition of cooking, is very telling of the influences one’s local region has on his or her cooking. In her restaurant, she follows the Japanese Kaiseki tradition which is very much about the cohesive flow between ingredients. Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner.

Cooking just like any other creative medium is an expression of ancestral and local influences. Children of immigrants, like yours truly, have the benefit of being exposed to the food of their parents, and the country of their birth. It is no wonder that so many second generation children grow up to be foodies.

Cooking for me sometimes is a pursuit of learning about the historical evolution of a dish. I have always found Shahi Tukray quite intriguing. Shahi Tukray is a South Asian dessert literally translated to Royal Pieces. The name of the dessert in itself is quite enigmatic. The word Shahi (royal) is Persian, and Tukray (pieces) is Urdu. The dessert is a South Asian variation of bread pudding, comprised of fried bread pieces soaked in saffron cream, and garnished with pistachios.

The origins of this dessert can be traced back to the Moghul Empire. The Moghul Dynasty ruled South Asia from circa 1526 to 1857. The dynasty was brought to an end by the British invasion in 1858. The Moghul rulers were originally from Persia, hence the part-Persian name of this dessert. In addition to the linguistic evidence, the inclusion of pistachios and saffron also indicate this dessert's Persian origins. Furthermore, the inclusion of bread indicates Shahi Tukray's European influence, which can be attributed to the two hundred year long British rule of South Asia.

As much as I was fascinated by the origins of this South Asian dessert, I have always found Shahi Tukray to be very one-dimensional. So, I wanted to come up with a recipe that was flavorful and paid homage to this dessert's Persian influences. That's why I decided to make a pistachio and coconut cream infused with rose water, cardamom, and saffron. The result is a regal dessert which lives up to its namesake.

Shahi Tukray with Pistachio & Coconut Cream
Shahi Tukray literally means Royal Pieces. So here I present to you the most literal regal dessert from South Asia. The recipe will be up on www.cultivateflavors.com on Friday.
Posted by Cultivate Flavors on Sunday, March 13, 2016

Butter Chicken in 9 Steps

Chef's Table is a Netflix series about six award winning renowned chefs from myriad cultures, regions, and philosophies. In spite of their different backgrounds all of these chefs are ultimately preparing food that is a true representative of their unique identity and ecology. The documentary series with its beautiful music and photography illustrates that cooking has a theatrical element to its inception, creation, and execution.

All of the six chefs featured here illustrate that although the ultimate purpose of food is sustenance, a well thought out plate of food evokes childhood memories, and excites senses. Cooking is creative. It is a constantly evolving art form, as shown by the stories shared by the following remarkable chefs.

These chefs discuss the same recurring themes. Firstly, they all share the same passion for preserving the authenticity of the ingredients. They stress that a final dish can never taste better than the ingredients used in its preparation. The difference between a good dish and a fantastic dish is the quality of ingredients used. Secondly, they all strived to find their own unique voice. They went off the beaten path to create dishes that are a representative of their personalities. Lastly, in the end what made them remarkable was their hard work, determination, and perseverance. It takes time to come in terms with your own identity, and achieve excellence. But, they did not give up. I strongly urge you to watch this inspirational documentary series.

In this blogpost, I will be discussing the first episode about Chef Massimo Bottura. The discussion about Chefs Dan Barber, Francis Mallman, Niki Nakayama, Ben Shewry, and Magnus Nillson will be coming up in the subsequent posts. 

Episode 1: Massimo Bottura - Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy

Three Michelin Stars

Ranked Second in the World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards, 2015.

I first got to know about Chef Massimo Bottura when he appeared on last year's Masterchef Australia, my favorite reality cooking show. Chef Bottura in his restaurant offers traditional Modena ingredients with his unique modern reinterpretation. Massimo says that one of the main ingredients in his cooking is memory. When Chef Bottura first opened his restaurant in a small Italian town his modern take on traditional Italian cooking was both rejected and ridiculed by the locals and critics. But as Massimo's wife Lara Bottura explains, he flourished in the initial friction and resistance between the traditional Italian cooking and his contemporary interpretation.

In this episode, it was quite evident that Chef Bottura and his wife are true life and work partners, who have embraced the restaurant as an extension of their family life. Chef Bottura says, "Happiness is much more big if you share with others." I believe that is what he is able to achieve by creating a family run restaurant with his incredible wife. I think, who you ultimately choose to marry not only plays a key role in your personal growth, but also has a huge impact on your professional growth. Chef Bottura credits his wife in opening his eyes to the art world. Since cooking is a creative art form, Chef Bottura draws a lot of his inspirations from the art and imagery around him.

So without further adieu, let's talk about Butter Chicken. A good bowl of Butter Chicken has the umami flavor. It has the perfect balance of sweetness and sourness, spiciness and saltiness. This balance is achieved by using fresh tomatoes, which are cooked in aromatic spices, mace flower, cardamom, and a pinch of saffron. The freshest ingredients you will use, the better the curry will taste. In the summer I like to use heirloom tomatoes from our garden, and in winter Roma tomatoes do the job. Since the secret lies in achieving the perfect balance between sweetness and sourness, adjust the quantity of organic ketchup and honey accordingly. Also, roasted chicken adds a smoky flavor to the curry. I hope you will give this recipe a try. 

Butter Chicken
Butter ChickenStay tuned for the recipe going up on www.cultivateflavors.com.
Posted by Cultivate Flavors on Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Bihari Kabab in 8 Steps

Bihari Kabab is the food of my people. The recipe I am sharing here is sort of a family heirloom. My mom inherited this recipe, from my grandmother, and she has now passed it down to my sister-in-law and me. The only difference is that growing up we called it Seekh Kabab, since these kababs are cooked on thin flat skewers, called seekh in Urdu. It is kind of like that Friends' joke:

Joey: [to Ross] Forget about Rachel. Go to China, eat Chinese food.
Chandler: Of course there they'd just call it food. 

The story behind Bihari Kabab is that apparently there was a Moghul Emperor, who lost his teeth, but still wanted to eat Kababs. He commissioned his royal chef to create a kabab recipe that did not require too much chewing. The chef brilliantly decided to marinate the meat in green papaya. The connective tissue in the meat breaks down when it comes in contact with an enzyme called papain, found in green papayas. So without further adieu, let's get cooking.

Bihari Kabab
Posted by Cultivate Flavors on Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Chicken Biryani in 11 Steps

My sister gave me the first edition of Mark Twain's 'The Innocent Abroad', photographed above, as a baby shower present; to remind me the lasting impression a mother can have on an individual's life. The readers of the travel book will know that Mark Twain dedicated this travelogue to his mother. 

Although, I am not a writer, but in my own humble ways, this biryani recipe is my homage to my very own loving mother. Biryani is a staple in Pakistani households. The Pakistani diaspora is incapable of having a celebratory dinner without the grand presence of this aromatic rice dish. South Asian grocery stores are laden with Biryani spice blends. In this recipe, I am using two types of pre-boxed Biryani spice blends, Sindhi Biryani Masala for the marinade, and Bombay Biryani Masala for the curry. The Sindhi one has dried plums, and the Bombay one has nutmeg. The combination of two results in more aromatic and flavorful Biryani. So let's get cooking.

Chicken Biryani
Posted by Cultivate Flavors on Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Red Lentil Soup or Daal in 11 Steps

One of the fondest memories I have from our trip to Turkey is being welcomed with a warm bowl of red lentil soup as soon as we would sit down to eat in a restaurant, in Istanbul. It was such an unexpected delicious surprise. Sipping warm soup, while deciding which gastronomic Turkish delight (no pun intended) to eat.  Here is my twist on a Daal recipe with a few remnants of Turkish influence.

Gajar or Carrot Halwa in 14 Steps

Marcel Proust had his aunt's madeleines. I have my mom's Gajar Halwa. Gajar or carrot halwa is a warm comforting dessert, redolent of my childhood. Lately, I have been missing my mom a lot. The worst part of living away from home is that I do not get to see my family as much as I would like to. Even when I am in Toronto, it is always such a struggle to spend a few peaceful days with my family. I made this halwa, because food has that power of transforming us back to a simpler time, the comfort of our childhood home, and the safe haven of our family. As Proust eloquently points out In Search of Lost Time:

No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, something isolated, detached, with no suggestion of its origin. And at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory – this new sensation having had on me the effect which love has of filling me with a precious essence; or rather this essence was not in me it was me. ... Whence did it come? What did it mean? How could I seize and apprehend it? ... And suddenly the memory revealed itself. The taste was that of the little piece of madeleine which on Sunday mornings at Combray (because on those mornings I did not go out before mass), when I went to say good morning to her in her bedroom, my aunt Léonie used to give me, dipping it first in her own cup of tea or tisane. The sight of the little madeleine had recalled nothing to my mind before I tasted it. And all from my cup of tea.

Do not be alarmed by it's exotic name. Gajar Halwa is basically a carrot fudge, which requires two to three hours of cooking time. All of the ingredients I use here are organic.

Qeema in 12 Steps

I remember reading somewhere that Qeema is the official food of Pakistan. It is such a quick and easy way to have protein. Children also love it for its simplicity. I use both fresh tomatoes, and yogurt to make sure that the chicken does not dry out; and what you end up with is a very moist and savory weeknight meal. 

Black Lentil Soup in 12 Steps

I like to cook a lot of lentils at home. They are nutritious, high in fiber and protein. Plus, tasting a bowl of beautifully cooked lentils is like receiving a warm hug. Haha, look at me, I just brought proverbial cheesiness to the lentils.

Black lentils require a slightly longer cooking time, compared to the red lentils. But, you can speed up the cooking process by soaking the lentils overnight. You can also choose to cook the lentils in the slow cooker or pressure cooker. I prepared this recipe on the stove, in a regular pot. Another little pointer, when I  am making lentil soups, I usually use a wooden spoon which has a hole in the middle. I believe, the hole helps in whipping the soup, while you are stirring it, allowing for creamier texture.

Chicken Pilaf in 11 Steps

You say pilaf. I say pulao. 

Pilaf. Pulao.

Pilaf or Pulao, is a Middle-Eastern/South Asian rice dish, in which rice is cooked in chicken or beef broth. Chicken pilaf/pulao is a weekly staple in my house. My toddler loves it. The rice is flavorful and aromatic. Plus, it takes only 45 minutes to prepare and cook the rice. The rice gets its flavor from the broth, that is why I use a lot of whole spices to season the broth. 

Roasted Chicken in 7 Steps

I have a confession to make (*Insert drumroll please*), I do not like chicken. I know...I know, I just lost any foodie creditability I had. But, my husband and toddler love this beloved protein. So, I am always striving to introduce flavor to this otherwise boring/rather ubiquitous bird. In this recipe, I achieve that with the use of sumac, among other things. As I have mentioned here, sumac is a Middle Eastern spice, which I feel should be a staple in your pantry. It introduces a very subtle lemony-floral flavor to any dish, especially chicken. You can roast the chicken in the oven or on the grill. The result will always be a delicious juicy piece of meat.

Roti Bread in 10 Steps

Roti bread is a staple in South Asian cuisine which goes with almost everything, including this yummy red lentil soup. I make the dough in my bread machine, but you can also knead it with hands. When the roti is cooking on the stove you will have to turn it twice to ensure that it cooks evenly.